Your Kyrgyzstan Travel Itinerary: 7 Days, 10 Days, 2 Weeks

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If you’re thinking of visiting Kyrgyzstan but haven’t booked your trip yet, do it.

Hopefully this Kyrgyzstan travel itinerary will help you plan it out. I spent two weeks in Kyrgyzstan during my one month Central Asia road trip, and it was my favorite country I visited.

Frankly, I didn’t feel like 2 weeks in Kyrgyzstan was enough time.

But don’t worry!

If you’re headed there for less than 2 weeks, I’ve still got some itinerary options for you.

There’s just so much to do and see in Kyrgyzstan. And the roads are a little bad, so getting to places like Song-Kul and Kel-Suu (two must-see stops in Kyrgyzstan) takes some time.

Anyway, I’ll definitely return to Kyrgyzstan.

I may have checked it off my bucket list of best mountains in the world (yes, the whole country made the list), but there’s still some things I didn’t get to do. Like the Ak Suu Traverse Trek, a difficult week-long hiking trail that shows off some of Kyrgyzstan’s most spectacular lakes. I want to ride more horses, take more pictures, and meet more Kyrgyz people (because they’re wonderful).

So I’ll be back.

And here’s exactly how I’ll spend my time, whether I’m visiting for just 5 days or a whole month…

When is the best time to visit Kyrgyzstan?

For most people, Kyrgyzstan is a once-in-a-lifetime destination. So you’ll want to visit during the times of year when you can do the most, see the most, and hike the most.

Yes, you should do some hiking if you visit Kyrgyzstan (make sure to check out Kyrgyzstan on AllTrails when planning your trip).

Why else would you visit one of the most mountainous countries in the world?

And you don’t have to be a hiking enthusiast or multiday backpacker to make the most of Kyrgyzstan’s rugged terrain. There are awesome day hikes scattered about the country. It doesn’t matter how far or long you want to hike, you’ll find Kyrgyzstan quite enchanting.

So yeah, visit when mountain passes are accessible, trails aren’t covered in snow, and stepping outside your yurt at night isn’t dangerously cold–although yurts get so splendidly cozy and warm.

A yurt on Son Kul. The little kitten stretching on the doorframe meowed all through the night, but I still slept like a rock.

The best times to visit Kyrgyzstan are May through October. In May and October, you might see some snow at higher elevations. Remember, Kyrgyzstan has a lot of variety in elevation. The cities can be brutally hot during the day (make sure you buy a 5L jug of water whenever you see one!), and pleasantly cool at night. In the mountains, even midday can be chilly, especially when it’s overcast. At night, it was frigid even in August.

No matter when you visit, it’s going to be hot at lower elevations (in the hills and cities) and chilly in the mountains. Sometimes uncomfortably so. But when it’s hot, you can find fresh fruit, ice cream, and Coca Cola (if that’s your thing). If you’re cold, a hot cup of tea is served with every meal.

If you want to see the most and do the most, book your Kyrgyzstan tour sometime between May and October. And always ask your local contact for recommendations and suggestions.

A golden eagle tethered to a perch in Jeti Oguz, Kyrgyzstan. These eagles are used for hunting, but also (unfortunately) tourism income for the families of these villages.

How long should you spend in Kyrgyzstan?

As long as you can afford, honestly. Even up to a month if you want.

The ideal time to spend in Kyrgyzstan is between 7 days and 1 month. You can visit for 5 days and have an awesome time, too, but 7 days opens up some time to venture farther off the beaten path.

Kyrgyzstan is super affordable, so I honestly wouldn’t go for less than 2 weeks. But that’s just me. I like to travel slow, hike, and talk to locals. I can hang out in the same village for a couple days, staring at mountains and stars.

5 days is doable, 7 days is better, but the more the merrier.

But you’ve got one life to live, right? More countries to see, mountains to climb, and people to meet. So let’s start with a 5 day trip to Kyrgyzstan.

The yurt camps below Kel-Suu are surrounded by glacial peaks. The mountains beyond the alpine lake stretch into China.

Where to stay when visiting Kyrgyzstan

When you’re planning your trip, always choose homestays and yurts over hotels. Kyrgyzstan hosts mostly use Booking.com, but you can find Airbnb rentals, too. All of my bookings were done on Booking.com, and other tourists I met were using that app, too.

When you choose a homestay, you’re signing up to be fed well, possibly share some conversation, and get local recommendations. Most yurt stays (even the large yurt camps along Song Kul) are basically homestays–they’re as authentic as it gets.

Is there WIFI in Kyrgyzstan?

I had WIFI at every place I stayed in Kyrgyzstan, except Song Kul and Kel Suu. These lakes were just way too far out from civilization. With a local SIM card, too, I usually had cell service to use WhatsApp and Google Maps, though it was very spotty away from villages and cities.

Don’t worry, you can stay pretty connected to the internet when you’re traveling in Kyrgyzstan.

The best Kyrgyzstan itinerary advice

Here’s the best advice I can give you: Kyrgyzstan offers limitless experiences.

That makes planning a trip kind of tough, right? There’s so much to see and do. But roads are bad, alpine lakes are hard to reach, and sometimes you just want to relax. Especially after spending hours on dusty, bumpy roads.

Whether your Kyrgyzstan travel itinerary is 5 days or one month, there are endless possibilities. Maybe you want to hike the best trails, or dive into the culture, or simply see as much as possible–combining hiking, horseback riding, yurt-sleeping, and city-walking.

Hire a local guide when planning your tour (or rent a car), and plot out some places you must see.

The following itineraries are only examples to highlight some of my favorite places in Kyrgyzstan. Use them as references to build you own, and always ask for local recommendations.

So here’s my advice: don’t try to cram too much into your trip. You won’t see it all anyway. Choose some places you’re highly interested in and center your trip around them. Ask your guide or a tour company what they think about your itinerary.

Plan for breakdowns, long days on the road, and stopping to take lots of pictures.

The eagle hunters of Bokonbayevo! Captured on my vintage screen-free digital camera.

My Kyrgyzstan Itinerary Planning Tools

Pro Tip! My Packing List

Check out my packing list for visiting Kyrgyzstan right here. Everything I brought for 30 days traveling through Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan.

When I’m planning overseas travel (notably to Central Asia), there are a couple tools I reference. The best experiences, trails, homestays, restaurants, and yurt camps aren’t listed everywhere, right?

First, I use some of these websites I listed on my Kyrgyzstan tour planning guide to make sure my info is up to date, to discuss plans with locals, and to see what types of adventures other travelers are getting into. There’re a handful of resources on that page to help you planning a tour of the country.

Second, I use AllTrails to see what other outdoorsy people are doing in the country. AllTrails is amazing because you can see what the most popular trails in any given area are.

Now, don’t expect the trails in Central Asia to be as well-traversed as parks back home, but it’s still a very useful tool for plotting must-see destinations, trails, and mountains.

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The third tool I use is Viator, a website where you’re able to book local experiences like hiking tours, horseback riding, eagle hunting demonstrations, and more. Similar to AllTrails, Viator doesn’t have thousands of experiences in Kyrgyzstan, but it’s got some really highly rated ones.

Book a tour with a local guide, or just use the app to see where guides are taking adventure-ready tourists.

Finally, Booking.com is basically the official sponsor of Kyrgyzstan homestays. Everyone uses it there. I’d never used Booking.com until arriving in Kyrgyzstan, but it’s the go-to. You’ll see some Airbnbs, too, but I highly recommend browsing Booking.com for the most options in Central Asia.

5 Day Kyrgyzstan Travel Itinerary

This 5 day Kyrgyzstan travel itinerary includes 5 full days of travel. So you’ll have your feet on the ground for 5 full days. That being said, book your flights to maximize your time. Maybe your flight home is on the sixth day so you’ve got time to return to Bishkek.

When you spend 5 days in Kyrgyzstan, you’re going to see some incredible mountains, visit one of the largest mountain lakes in the world, meet eagle hunters, sleep in a yurt, and explore a National Park.

How’s that sound? You’ll do more, too, but those are some highlights.

Alright, again, 5 days isn’t much time. I would try to get a couple more days in Kyrgyzstan. But I get it. You’re just knocking it off your travel bucket list, or maybe you’re passing through between Kazakhstan and Tajikistan. 5 days in Kyrgyzstan would still be a neat trip.

Now I’m going to assume you’re starting in Bishkek, the capital city up north. Bishkek will be the most affordable airport to fly into, and it’s the most accessible city to start your trip. If you’re crossing from Kazakhstan, Bishkek will likely be your first stop.

For a 5 day Kyrgyzstan itinerary, we’ll focus on the northeast portion of the country: Ala Archa National Park and Issyk Kul.

A cold boat ride on Issyk Kul. One of our first stops in Kyrgyzstan was Cholpon Ata, a village on the north shore.

What will you see in 5 days?

In five days in Kyrgyzstan, you’re going to get a lot of exposure to the unique, nomadic culture of the mountainous country. You’ll see relics of communism, too. There won’t be any super long hikes on the itinerary, but you’ll spend lots of time in nature.

Five days is a nice taste, but you’re going to want to come back. Ask your guide and other tourists for recommendations, writing them down in your waterproof notebook. When I met other travelers, I heard of a lot of cool places that I wouldn’t get to see.

But here are some highlights from a 5 day trip…

  1. Hike in a National Park that rivals–not in size, but in beauty–some of the best in North America. Kyrgyzstan is full of natural wonders.
  2. Visit the one of the largest lakes in Central Asia, and one of the deepest in the world. Surrounded by snowcapped peaks, Issyk Kul is a popular vacation destination for Russian tourists.
  3. Eat traditional Kyrgyz food (nothing to get too excited about, honestly). Horse milk, anyone?
  4. Visit traditional villages and scenic canyons for some of the best Instagram photo ops you’ll ever have. All authentic, no gimmicky tourist traps.
  5. Watch a Golden Eagle hunting show, where multi-generational eagle hunters will demonstrate the intellect, power, and loyalty of the eagles they’ve raised. Fascinating.
  6. Road trip through incredible mountain landscapes. Kyrgyzstan is 90%+ mountains, so you’re going to see some great views.

But here’s what I think you miss with just a 5 day itinerary. After all, you didn’t even get to hike to an alpine lake, or ride horses! Plus, you probably got at least one flat tire, which stretches your time even thinner. Hey, just being honest. Jump ahead to a 2 week itinerary if you want to see the best of Kyrgyzstan.

  1. Horseback riding at Song-Kul, a huge lake surrounded by nomadic grazing grounds (aka thousands of horses, yurt camps, and mountains). The lake itself sits at over 9,000 feet in elevation.
  2. Sleeping in remote yurts. Sure you can book a yurt stay in almost every city and village in Kyrgyzstan, but there’s something special about the yurts in the mountains, away from the towns and cities. Don’t you want to step out of your yurt and see the Milky Way rising?
  3. Hiking to Kel-Suu, a blue alpine lake surrounded by jagged mountains near the Chinese border. Some of the most impressive scenery I’ve witnessed.
  4. Visiting Arslanbob, a quiet city filled with old cars and home of the world’s largest natural walnut forest. The views in the hills surrounding Arslanbob are spectacular.
  5. Taking the Pamir Highway south from Osh toward the Tajikistan border and Lenin Peak.

Ala Archa National Park was my first destination in Kyrgyzstan. I was pretty happy to be in the mountains! Photo captured on my GoPro Hero 12.

Day 1: Bishkek and Ala Archa National Park

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for your first day, from the airport to an awesome homestay and then to Ala Archa: airport to homestay to Ala Archa.

Arrive in Bishkek, meet your driver if you hired one, grab a local SIM card and a bag of apricots (Babasher bought us a huge bag for 300 Som, or $0.58), and hit the road.

You might check in to your homestay, first, or get something to eat. But your first full day will be visiting Ala Archa, so try to arrive to Bishkek in the morning.

Ala Archa is located about 45 minutes south of Bishkek. It’s a great first stop in Kyrgyzstan, and very popular with locals and tourists alike. Lace up some good hiking shoes and head south!

Ala Archa National Park

There are a few trail heads and parking lots as you drive into Ala Archa toward the main parking lot (Apple Maps | Google Maps) near the photogenic Ala-Archa Hotel (Apple Maps | Google Maps). Stop, take some pictures, and hit some trails if you’d like.

But the real hikes start at this main parking lot. I recommend using AllTrails to explore the best hikes in Ala Archa. Right here you can see the top hikes in the park and plan your trip accordingly.

Can you stay in Ala Archa National Park?

Yes, you can stay in and near Ala Archa National Park, but you don’t really need to unless you plan on tackling multiple big hikes. Ala Archa is only about 50 minutes from Bishkek, and you can certainly find a taxi to the park and back. Or hitchhike, which is very common in Kyrgyzstan. Just be prepared to offer some compensation to your driver.

After Ala Archa, return to your homestay (I recommend staying here with Nazira and her family) and get some sleep. There are lots of adventures ahead!

Nazira and her family made my first night in Kyrgyzstan very special (and comfortable). Very sweet people. Read the reviews yourself!

Day 2: Bishkek to Cholpon Ata (Issyk Kul)

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for your first day on the road: Bishkek to Cholpon Ata with Burana Tower and lunch. I’ve used my recommended Bishkek homestay as the starting point. And I stayed in this comfortable hotel in Cholpon Ata.

On your way out of Bishkek, your driver might stop for some black market Kazakh gas. Grab some melons, apricots, and raspberries, too! And a 5L jug of water–you can buy these at most shops & markets.

You might want to stop at a supermarket, too. The big cities all have plenty of grocery stores. I found that cheese and bread was my favorite road snack, but you can buy lots of junk food, too. Candy, cookies, and pastries abound in Central Asia.

You’ll be heading east, skirting the lower edge of the Khrebet Kungey Alatau mountains along the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border, on your way to the eighth deepest lake in the world, Issyk Kul. We stopped for lunch at a café called Kaymak (Каймак), which was pretty delicious (Apple Maps | Google Maps). You’ll see plenty of cafes and restaurants along your drive.

Burana Tower

Burana Tower is an archaeological site where the remnants of an ancient city remain. The main feature is a huge portion of a minaret which you can climb for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. It’s a very touristy spot but well-worth the stop for history lovers. The tickets they give you for admission are small stamps, which are nice souvenirs.

If you want to see a thousand-plus year old city, check out Burana. It’s not too far off your travel route.

Cholpon Ata

Cholpon Ata (Apple Maps | Google Maps) is a small resort town on the north shore of Issyk Kul. It’s got some beaches, restaurants, and (apparently) an open air petroglyphs museum. We opted for the beach, which was clean and a little chilly. I swam in the frigid water (good thing I had my Bearbottoms) while my driver Musa and his cousin Khulk watched me from the shore, like parents keeping an eye on their son.

If the weather is nice, I’d go to the beach (Apple Maps | Google Maps), take a boat ride out into the lake (a big ferry takes people out–you’ll get to interact with locals), and people watch. You’ll see lots of Russian tourists around Issyk Kul.

I stayed at this guesthouse/hotel in Cholpon Ata. It was very clean and comfortable, though the hosts were not particularly friendly–perhaps they didn’t speak English.

One of my favorite experiences was in Cholpon Ata. My second day there, I went for a walk and was greeted by a man and his son who invited me in for breakfast. They hosted me, gave me a Kyrgyz soccer jersey, and showed me their home and garden.

Day 3: Cholpon Ata to Karakol

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Cholpon Ata to Karakol. I’ve used The Lake Townhouse hotel as the starting point.

Karakol is a neat city to visit. It’s the fourth-largest city in Kyrgyzstan and features two famous landmarks: a fascinating Chinese Dungan mosque (Apple Maps | Google Maps) built without nails and a beautiful Russian Orthodox cathedral built in the 1800s (Apple Maps | Google Maps).

Getting to Karakol was an adventure. There had just been large storms, and much of the roads had turned to mud. Roads in Kyrgyzstan aren’t great anyway, but they’d become clogged with traffic and stuck cars in places. Homes along the highway were flooded and caked in knee-deep mud. You could see people digging their homes out.

Luckily we had a 4 wheel drive SUV (a must-have in Kyrgyzstan) and made it to Karakol before dinner. I took a nap before heading to a restaurant you’ve got to visit if you’re passing through Karakol: Kafe Saymaluu (Apple Maps | Google Maps).

After checking out the mosque and cathedral and having dinner, we spent the night in Karakol. I liked Karakol and would definitely come back here to do the Ak-Suu traverse.

Kafe Saymaluu (Apple Maps | Google Maps) in Karakol was awesome!

Day 4: Karakol to Jeti Oguz, Fairytale Canyon, and Bokonbaeyvo

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Karakol to Jeti Oguz, Fairytale Canyon, and Bokonbaeyvo with stops added.

Grab some snacks and water on your way out of Karakol. Today and tomorrow will be pretty awesome. Your first stop is in Jeti Oguz (Apple Maps | Google Maps), a village in a red-rocks canyon dotted with pine trees. Truly a beautiful place! There’s at least one popular overlook of Seven Bulls Rock (Apple Maps | Google Maps), where I got some of my favorite photos of Kyrgyzstan.

Seven Bulls was a highlight of my Kyrgyzstan road trip.

If you have time, there’s great hiking in this area, too–but that’s the case all over Kyrgyzstan. You could spend months in Kyrgyzstan and not conquer them all.

After Jeti Oguz, head back to the highway on the south shore of Issyk Kul (remember, you’re circling the lake) and continue west toward Skazka Canyon (aka Fairytale Canyon) (Apple Maps | Google Maps), a Martian-like landscape that’ll make you feel like you’re in Arizona. It’s a hot, dry, rugged place that provides some great views of Issyk Kul to the north.

Skazka Canyon was one of the only places I saw a souvenir stand in Kyrgyzstan. It’s just not a gimmicky destination. I also met a fellow American here, only one of two I’d meet during my entire Central Asia road trip.

Next you’re heading to your homestay in Bokonbayevo. Your hosts should be able to arrange for an eagle hunting demonstration, one of the most memorable parts of my Kyrgyzstan travels. With the previous stops in Jeti Oguz and Fairytale Canyon, try to book your demonstration for the next day. Likely, a few other tourists will meet you there, too.

Day 5: Bokonbayevo to Bishkek, with an eagle hunting demonstration

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Bokonbaeyvo to Bishkek, with an eagle demonstration with stops added.

My friend Musa arranged the demonstration for me, but most homestay hosts and yurt camps in the Bokonbayevo area can help arrange it.

They’ve got other traditional experiences/tours, too, but I highly recommend the eagle hunting show (‘Berkut’). I met fifth generation eagle hunters and watched their Golden Eagles pluck a rabbit off the ground. It was impressive.

It’s your last day, and you’ve got a flight in Bishkek to catch. Whether your flight is today or tomorrow, head north back to the capital. Your quick tour of Kyrgyzstan has come to an end!

One Week Kyrgyzstan Itinerary

This one week Kyrgyzstan travel itinerary includes 7 full days of travel. So you’ll have your feet on the ground for 7 full days. That being said, book your flights to maximize your time. Maybe your flight home is on the eighth day so you’ve got time to return to Bishkek.

For the first 5 days of this itinerary, refer to the 5 day itinerary above.

Alright, now we’re talking. Let’s add 2 days to the above agenda for a total of one week in Kyrgyzstan. Instead of returning to Bishkek on the fifth day, we’re heading farther southwest, away from Issyk Kul.

Add Song-Kul to your trip for a few reasons. First of all, it’s a huge, beautiful lake perched at 9,000 feet surrounded by nomadic pastures. You can ride horses, stargaze, and enjoy the chilly mountain evenings way out there.

This was my first true adventurous undertaking while I was in Kyrgyzstan, and Song-Kul is magical.

If you visit Song-Kul, an experienced driver can take you into the hills around sunset for some pretty amazing views of the tiny yurt camps and immense lake.

Day 5: Bokonbayevo to Song-Kul, with an eagle hunting demonstration

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Bokonbaeyvo to Song-Kul lake, with an eagle demonstration with stops added. This itinerary ends at Ali-Nur Yurt Camp.

Your Kyrgyzstan trip is about to get even better. After an amazing eagle hunting demonstration, Musa and I headed southwest for the first pretty remote section of my Kyrgyzstan trip. If you thought the roads were bad before, they’re about to get worse (and more beautiful).

The drive to Song-Kul was incredibly beautiful, and the lake itself is pretty stunning. Even as we arrived midday, the air was chilly. Musa, Babasher, and I took their Nissan Pathfinder up the steep slopes of the hills behind the yurt camp for some pictures way up high.

In the morning we rode horses up into those same hills, hunting for petroglyphs and chatting with shepherds.

It’s worth a few extra days in Kyrgyzstan to visit Song-Kul.

Your hosts at Ali-Nur yurt camp can arrange horseback riding, and they’ll be sure to have some good meals prepared for you.

Day 6: Song-Kul to Bishkek

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Song-Kul to Bishkek.

There are two ways to leave Song-Kul, both quite scenic. You’ll go back the way you came to return to Bishkek. That’s heading north. Continuing southwest along the lake has some of the most breathtaking views in Kyrgyzstan, in my opinion. But you’ve got a plane to catch!

Day 7: Relax, fly out of Bishkek

Bishkek is the capital of Kyrgyzstan. I recommend checking out some of the local sights, relaxing, and preparing for your flight out. You’ll be pretty tired after a week bouncing along rugged roads!

Kel-Suu is a must-see Kyrgyzstan destination. The yurts, the lake, the stars! Truly a magical place.

10 Day Kyrgyzstan Itinerary

With 10 days in Kyrgyzstan I think you can start to venture away from Issyk-Kul, which is the primary feature of most Kyrgyzstan itineraries less than two weeks.

So let’s give it a shot. On day 6, instead of heading north from Song-Kul to Bishkek, you’re going to head south toward Kel-Suu.

You ready?

Days 1-5

For your first 5 days of a 10 day Kyrgyzstan itinerary, follow the above route around Issyk-Kul and to Song-Kul. Then, instead of heading north to Bishkek and a flight home (or to your next destination), you’ll head south to Naryn and Kel-Suu.

Kel-Suu is a must-see destination in Kyrgyzstan.

Day 6: Song-Kul to Naryn

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Song-Kul to Naryn. You’ll also get your permits for visiting Kel-Suu this day when you reach Naryn.

Leaving Song-Kul via the road heading west has some of the best views in Kyrgyzstan, and that’s the way you’re headed. So get your camera ready. The drive to Naryn is quite scenic. Indeed, the whole area around Naryn is scenic! Red rock cliffs, towering mountains, apiaries, honey-for-sale roads, and the Naryn River.

The best part about this day is the driving–the views, that is. Naryn is a neat city with some cool statues, but we settled into our homestay and got some good sleep. Oh, we ate a pretty good meal at Kafe Gurman (Apple Maps | Google Maps), too.

If you need to pick up your Kel-Suu permit (my driver had already arranged mine–one of the perks of hiring a private driver), you’ll do so in Naryn. Make sure you arrange this permit ahead of time! Whoever your tour company/driver is should be able to help. You can also arrange one here.

Get some rest! Tomorrow is a big day getting to Kel-Suu!

Kyrgyzstan itineraries should include some time for breakdowns. Here we are, many miles from a city or town, with an overheated car. We used our drinking water to cool the engine, then refilled those jugs from a nearby stream. Musa and Babasher were very good at fixing their cars.

Day 7: Naryn to Kel-Suu

Unfortunately, a Google Maps itinerary is not available for this portion of the trip. But here’s where you’re headed: Visit Kel Suu Yurt Camp (Google Maps | Booking.com). I don’t necessarily recommend this yurt camp over the others, but they are one of the only ones listed online. We stayed at Golden Moon, and it was great. They’re all great, I’m sure. Just a yurt and a hot meal.

Before heading to the high elevation Ak-Sai Valley (home to Kel-Suu), stock up on water and snacks. I shared a car to Kel-Suu with 4 other people, we brought multiple 5L jugs of drinking water. In the lower portion of the valley, where it’s quite hot during the summer days, our car overheated and we used our water to cool it off.

So bring plenty of water!

The roads to Kel-Suu are very rough, and you’ll pass through military checkpoints (where you’ll sometimes have to wait–they’re not in a huge hurry to check everyone’s paperwork). The drive is incredibly scenic and you’ll spot yaks and marmots.

We stayed at Golden Moon Yurt Camp, but there are a few others in the area. We showed up without accommodations booked, and Golden Moon still had beds–though I’m not sure where our drivers Babasher and Musa slept.

After a meal, we still had time to visit the lake on our first day at Kel-Suu. I recommend doing the same: leave Naryn early and get to the lake in the afternoon. Have a hot meal and make the trek to check it out.

You’re going to meet some cute dogs in Kyrgyzstan. They were all pretty smart–mostly working dogs, I suppose. This little guy lived at our yurt camp at Kel-Suu.

Reaching Kel-Suu

Now, there are a few ways to reach Kel-Suu. You can go by horseback, hike, or car. It’s possible to reach the lake in your car, if you know just where to go. But a word of caution: you will probably get stuck.

We had an expert driver (thanks, Babasher!) who knew how to navigate the rivers we had to cross, the mud pits, and the rocks. And we still got stuck, but only on the way back. Luckily Kyrgyz people are very resourceful, and another tour guide pulled us out–not without some effort. I also oddly saw a big Ram pickup truck stuck in the mud, a little out of place in those rugged Central Asia mountains.

Don’t try to drive to Kel-Suu without a local behind the wheel. We watched a tiny little white Lada make it all the way to the lake while we hiked the remaining distance. Quite impressive!

This short drive and hike were awesome. We drove through a big river, got a little muddy, and took in the otherworldly scenery of this remote border region.

Finally, we made it to beautiful, cold, remote, rugged Kel-Suu. A highlight of any Kyrgyzstan trip.

Stargazing

If you’ve got a good camera with you, now’s your chance for some serious star photography. The Kel-Suu yurt camps are way out in the mountains, so the stars really show off. This was the most immense, impressive sky I’ve ever seen.

We watched the Milky Way rise in the frigid night before getting cozy in our yurt.

Day 8: Kel-Suu to Bishkek

This will be a long day on the road, but there will be plenty of lovely views and places to eat along the way. Basically, this portion brings you back to civilization. Don’t worry! We’ve got one great hike left.

Spend the night in Bishkek before hiking tomorrow to Kol Tor lake.

Day 9: Bishkek to Kol Tor lake hike

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this day: Bishkek to Kol Tor lake. I’ve used my recommended Bishkek homestay as the starting point.

I love how Pashmina of TheGoneGoat.com sums up Kyrgyzstan in her Kol Tor guide: “Green stretches of forests, emerald blue lake and the cool mountain stream met with the occasional shepherd tending to his cattle and miles and miles of empty trails filled with wild grazing horses while trekking in Kol Tor lake. This is why Kyrgyzstan, a country whose endless beauty begs a slow study.“

That sums up pretty well why I think it’s important to spend more than a week in Kyrgyzstan.

Anyway, today you’re heading to the fairytale-like (aren’t so many places in Kyrgyzstan fairytale-like?) Kol Tor lake, just a day trip away from Bishkek.

Depending on what time your flight out of Bishkek is tomorrow, you might stay the night at the lake, camping or using a local stay (there are a few options on Booking.com–like this one). Otherwise, enjoy your day hike and head back to Bishkek.

Day 10: Fly out of Bishkek

Goodbye, Kyrgyzstan! If you have some time, explore Bishkek a bit. This is your final day in Central Asia.

Arslanbob is very out of the way, but it was one of my favorite places in Kyrgyzstan. Captured on my Camp Snap vintage digital camera.

2 Week Kyrgyzstan Itinerary

2 weeks is the minimum amount of time I recommend visting Kyrgyzstan. It’s a wonderful country (the Switzerland of Central Asia, I’ve read–because of the mountains, of course) with tons to see and do. Plus, it’s culturally very unique. You’ll meet shepherds and nomads, hear the morning calls to prayer from mosques, hike to alpine lakes, and maybe drink a little horse milk.

And you know what, 2 weeks might leave you wanting more. I left Kyrgyzstan wanting to come back, after all.

Days 1-7

The first seven days of this 2 week Kyrgyzstan Itinerary will follow the 10 day itinerary above. Bishkek, Issyk Kul, Skazka Canyon, Bokonbayevo, Son Kul, and Kel-Suu all included. However, instead of returning to Bishkek after Kel-Suu, you’re going to head west, first to Kazarman through Naryn.

On the road from Naryn to Kazarman we got some of the best views of the whole trip. Rocking my armless Ombraz sunglasses.

Day 8: Kel-Suu to Kazarman

This was my favorite drive of my entire Kyrgyzstan trip.

It was very long, but the views and immersion in rural Kyrgyzstan were excellent. You’ll climb impossibly high into the mountains and dive into lush, little villages where hay is being collected. The scenery changes impressively, and you might spot some wildlife (we saw some rare, ground-dwelling birds).

But with a flat tire, we were on the road for 10 hours. Honestly, it didn’t feel too bad. We stopped regularly to take photos, too, which certainly contributed to the long drive.

Kazarman (Apple Maps | Google Maps) is an old mining town which has seen better days. But it’s a great place to stop on your journey toward Arslanbob, your next destination. Sleep in a homestay, grab some food, go for a walk on the Naryn River, and rest.

I loved seeing all the huge piles of hay in the villages and towns of Kyrgyzstan. Summer was coming to an end, and the gathering was fervent.

Day 9: Kazarman to Arslanbob

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Kazarman to Arslanbob.

Another one of my favorite drives during my time in Kyrgyzstan. Wow, the views and heights!

Unfortunately, we had a long breakdown here (our millionth flat tire). It took us over 4 hours to get back on the road–every passerby offered to help, though. Kyrgyz people are very resourceful, hospitable, and kind–one of the best things about Kyrgyzstan.

So yeah, this is a pretty neat drive as well, but it’s a long day. With our breakdown and stopping for food, we arrived in Arslanbob 12 hours after leaving Kazarman. This homestay in Arslanbob was one of the best I’ve ever stayed in. Comfortable rooms, nice facilities, and an amazing breakfast each morning. If you’re traveling with friends, this family accommodates groups.

I stayed two nights in Arslanbob, and I suggest you do, too. It’s seriously a pleasant place.

Landslides in Arslanbob

When I visited Arslanbob in the summer of 2024, they were recovering from a massive landslide that destroyed roads, homes, and bridges. There was an impressive streak of mud, big as a river, that you could see from miles away. Navigation was difficult in places, and we had to drive through a river where a bridge was being rebuilt.

All that’s to say, many locals couldn’t tell us how to reach certain scenic hikes or waterfalls, and we got lost a couple times. Use a combination of Google Maps, local recommendations, and AllTrails to find the best trails and views.

Day 1 in Arslanbob

Wake up, enjoy breakfast (local walnuts included, of course), and put your favorite hiking shoes on. The first place you’re heading is a challenging hike to a serene mountaintop where there are tons of local farms. It’s not really a touristy spot, but you’ll feel like you’ve been transported back in time.

Families working their land, plowing with horses, and fresh fruits to snack on from trees you walk under. When Babasher took me up this hike (which has great views even before you reach the top), a young boy picked us sunflowers to eat. That was a first for me! It always helps to have a guide with you to translate and interact with locals.

Unfortunately, I didn’t use my watch to ping the location of this hike, and all my photos were taken on my Camp Snap camera, (which doesn’t save location data), so I don’t know how to reach it!

Fear not, it’s a trail that locals know, so you might just have to ask. Maybe ask where the trail is that leads to the farms? It’s opposite the massive grey mountain face, with Arslanbob between.

Otherwise, there’re other great hikes around Arslanbob that locals can recommend, and you can check AllTrails, too.

Arslanbob is home to the world’s largest walnut forest, it’s filled with cool old Soviet cars, and it has a large Uzbek population, so you’ll notice a more conservative culture. In other words, it’s a unique little pocket of Kyrgyzstan tucked into a beautiful mountain range.

Day 2 in Arslanbob (aka Day 10)

Today you’re leaving Arlsanbob, but you might go out for another hike first, or visit the famous waterfalls (Apple Maps | Google Maps). Enjoy the fresh mountain air before you get back on the road.

Next, you’re headed to the beautiful lake Sary-Chelak.

Day 11: Arslanbob to Sary-Chelak

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Arslanbob to Sary-Chelak. I’ve used my awesome Sary Chelak homestay as the destination. Another favorite homestay from my trip!

Depending on when you arrive, you might relax at your homestay (I stayed here: very comfortable, WIFI, good food, nice bathrooms).

Sary-Chelak (Apple Maps | Google Maps) is a nature preserve, and it’s quite beautiful. We only stopped for some pictures and to walk around the area a bit, but there’s some good hiking trails around. Unfortunately AllTrails doesn’t list any, so you might have to rely on Google Maps and local help.

For me, the highlight of Sary-Chelak was the color of the lake and beauty of the massive pine trees. But it wasn’t as notable as Kel-Suu or Song-Kul. The homestay was fantastic, though, with plum and apple trees, chickens, and very comfortable accommodations.

Sary-Chelak was beautiful, even on a cool, rainy day.

Day 12: Sary-Chelak to Toktogul (or Osh, if heading to Tajikistan)

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Sary-Chelak to Toktogul. I’ve used my Sary-Chelak homestay as the starting point.

Toktogul is a good stopping point when you’re heading back north from Kyrgyzstan’s Jalal-Abad/Osh/Ferghana region. There’s a big reservoir, a bazaar, and a pleasant town. It’ll take you most of your day to get here, so sit back and enjoy the mountainous drive.

If you’re heading to Tajikistan via the Pamir Highway, you drive south to Osh instead. If Osh is your destination, there are plenty of homestays, but you might be ready for a hotel, too. Booking.com is still your best bet for seeing the most options in Central Asia. Osh is a pretty poppin’ city, I enjoyed walking around and checking it out.

Day 13-14: Back to Bishkek!

Here’s the complete Google Maps itinerary for this segment: Toktogul to Bishkek.

Your final 2 days of your 2 week trip will be spent traveling to and hanging around Bishkek. Maybe you’ve got time for a Bishkek food tasting tour or a Kol Tor hike.

How to spend one month in Kyrgyzstan

I don’t mind traveling slow. Heck, I could probably spend a month in Puerto Rico (small as it may be) and be happy. Kyrgyzstan, though, demands exploration. A month wouldn’t be too much, and it might not be enough. That’s assuming you like to hike, of course.

Incredible hiking is one of the best reasons to visit Central Asia, especially Kyrgyzstan.

I’m going to keep this one month Kyrgyzstan itinerary pretty simple, until I start to really plan the trip. So consider this a rough outline that highlights what I loved about Kyrgyzstan, and some of the things I feel I missed out on.

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Days 1-3: Bishkek and Kol Tor

I didn’t get to spend much time in Bishkek, nor did I visit Kol Tor. I’d still stay with Nazira and her family at Jaisel Homestay, but I’d probably check out the center of Bishkek, perhaps taking a city tour.

I’d also like to hike to Belogorka Waterfall, which is only a day trip from Bishkek. So that’s probably squeezed in there, too. Maybe on the third day?

So three days shared between arriving in Bishkek, exploring the capital, and checking out Kol Tor.

Days 4-5: Ala Archa National Park

I feel like I missed out on some cool hikes because I didn’t really know where I was going. This one I’d hit for sure: Ak-Sai Waterfall. I’d probably spend a night in Ala Archa before heading east toward Issyk Kul.

Days 5-6: Issyk Kul and Karakol

Over these next two days, I’m making my way to Karakol, going around the north side of Issyk Kul. I’d probably hit Burana again and hike Konorchek Canyons. Upon arrival in Karakol, I’m prepping for the infamous Ak-Suu Traverse.

Days 7-16: Ak-Suu Traverse

I’m taking 9 days to hike the Ak-Suu Traverse east to west, finishing in Jeti Oguz. An east to west hike saves the best views for the end, according to Xpatmatt’s very detailed guide. This is a big hike, and my primary reason for returning to Kyrgyzstan. It was featured in National Geographic’s 100 Hikes of a Lifetime, after all.

9 days is a long time, and you don’t have to hike the whole thing. For example, you can opt for the best portion of the hike by venturing up to Ala-Kol for 2 days.

I enjoy multiday hikes, though, so I’d want to do the whole traverse.

Day 17: Bokonbayevo

I’ll stop in Bokonbayevo on my way deeper into Kyrgyzstan, and perhaps watch another eagle hunting show.

Days 18-19: Song-Kul

I would definitely return to Song-Kul and ride horses into the hills again. Hopefully this time we can actually find the petroglyphs. Song-Kul is a gorgeous destination with unreal views on the drive in and out. The food is good, the yurts cozy, and the stars bright.

Song-Kul is still on my one month itinerary, even though I’ve already been.

Day 20: Naryn

I’ll stop in Naryn for a night before heading to Kel-Suu. Naryn was one of the most striking places we drove through in Kyrgyzstan: wide river, red rocks climbing on the side, and mountains in the distance. I was also pretty intrigued by all the beekeepers in this region, though I saw them elsewhere, too.

Days 21-22: Kel-Suu

No trip to Kyrgyzstan is complete without seeing the natural wonder of glacier-blue Kel-Suu. The Iceland-like landscapes surrounding the lake make for some great Instagram photos, and the yurt camps are quite charming.

Stargazing, hiking, hot soup, and maybe a boat ride across the lake, between the towering jagged peaks.

Day 23: Kel-Suu to Kazarman

Again, Kazarman is just a stop along the way to more must-see Kyrgyzstan destinations. But the roads around this town offer spectacular views and varying landscapes. Get your camera ready!

Days 24-26: Arslanbob

I’m heading back to Arslanbob and staying for a couple days, hiking, walking around, and relaxing. This is a busy itinerary! So it’s good to chill out and relax at least once.

Days 27-28: Sary-Chelak

Another slow couple days at Sary-Chelak, staying in this comfortable homestay. Hiking, sipping tea, taking a nice shower.

Days 29-30: Osh

If you want to get the most of your time in Kyrgyzstan, you might fly out of Osh rather than making your bumpy way back to Bishkek. It’ll be more expensive, but it’ll allow you see more and do more. Because getting from Sary-Chelak to Bishkek is quite a journey! But the drive to Osh (a large city very much worth seeing) takes just a day.

Osh is on my list as a city to explore more. When I bring my wife back to Kyrgyzstan, we’re definitely doing a plov cooking tour. I love plov (aka pilaf), and she loves to cook!

Continuing your journey into Tajikistan

If you find yourself in Osh, Kyrgyzstan, you’re on the northern terminus of the Pamir Highway, a famous journey into Tajikistan’s mountainous GBAO region and Pamir National Park. Heading south away from the Fergana Valley are Tajikistan’s formidable Pamir Mountains, which are very much worth visiting if you’ve got a week or two extra.

While Kyrgyzstan was my favorite country of my 30 day Central Asia road trip, Tajikistan felt the most adventurous. I mean, we were way out there. Truly remote, sometimes primitive, and always beautiful–in the mountains, at least.

The Wakhan Corridor (the border region between Tajikistan and Afghanistan) was one of the highlights of my trip. Talking to Tajik soldiers and villagers, hiking to 16,000 feet, and seeing a *certain* white flag waving across the river…the Wakhan was wild and amazing.

So if you’re looking to add another country to your Kyrgyzstan itinerary and you love big mountains, make it Tajikistan. Visiting Tajikistan is like stripping away all the nomadic cultural beauty of Kyrgyzstan and replacing it with bigger mountains, worse roads, and a larger-than-life government. I compare the two countries right here, and I would gladly return to either.

Tajikistan, after all, has some gorges and valleys, some really cool hikes, that are quite intriguing for the more adventurous among us.

George
Georgehttps://georgecallahan.com
George Callahan is the creator of Pine Tree Poet. He is an author of fantasy stories and an adventure traveler.

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The finest threads
we can dress ourselves with
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in the wild places
to those who dare to come with us

10/24/21 by Pine Tree Poet
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